IKEA hack cutting table


This is my first time creating a table without a plan, bits and pieces of the idea came from a couple blogs so I will try to be as thorough as possible in my explanation. I will link the inspiration blogs at the bottom so you can see other ways to make smaller tables much like this one.

Materials:

Top
3/4in. Red Oak Plywood - cut to 48in x 80in
1in. x 3in. Oak Board (edging) - 2 pieces cut to 49.5in. and 2 pieces cut to 80in.
2in. x 6in. x 12ft - cut into 3 to 44in. boards

Base
2 - Ikea Kallax storage shelves 
1 box - Wire Nails - 18 x 5/8"
3 - 1/8in. x 4ft x 8ft Hardboards - (backing and connector for shelves) - cut to
  • One 30in. x 43.75in.  
  • Two 30in. x 57.5in.
  • One 72.5in. x 43.75in.

I purchased the wood from Home Depot and had them cut the plywood to 48in. x 80in. 
I also purchased the random length oak board to use for edging, it was per foot so we only bought what was needed for the project. Two 49.5in. boards and two 80in. boards. 
When I purchased the hardboard I figured I could just cut it at home, looking back if Home Depot can cut your hardboard, have them cut that as well, then when you get home all you have to do is lightly sand the edges with 220 very fine sandpaper and paint white. If you don't plan to use the space between the table and the shelves and you don't want backing on the shelves, you do not need the hardboard.
I managed to get the target backing and one of the ikea backings out of the same hardboard. You'll want to cut the Target board out first, then the IKEA board.

Building the base:

First I built the IKEA and Target shelves. Once they were constructed, I attached the hardboard backing to each of the shelves using wire nails. The 30in. x 43.75in. goes on the back of the Target shelf and the two 30in. x 57.5in. go on the back of the IKEA Kallax shelves. I originally wasn't going to paint the edges but after seeing it against the white shelves decided to paint the outer edges that would be showing. It is easiest to sand and paint them before attaching, I did it after so you can too but its easier when they are off the shelves.

Once the backing was on, I lined up the shelves in the room where I wanted the table to be. The top is heavy so this table won't do a lot of moving once it's complete. You will line them up by the outside edges and it will look like a giant U-shape.

I then added the 72.5in. x 43.75in. hardboard on top (painted the edges prior to putting it on) and nailed that down using the wire nails. 
Now your base is complete!



Building the top:

First, I painted the bottom of the 3/4" plywood, it isn't necessary but gives it a finished look.
I painted the edging prior to attaching it thinking that I could skip the step of painting them after attaching and while I am glad the backs were already painted, most of the paint was sanded off so its better to paint only the back side before attaching.

After I painted I tried to attach the oak board edging using finishing nails and it was so difficult. If you have a nail gun it may be easier to attach the edging using a nail gun, but I didn't so we used the kreg system to attach the edges and then I didn't have to fill any nail holes after the fact. 
I Kreg'd 3/4in. holes every 6in. per the Kreg instructions all the way around the edge of the board. Then attached all of the oak edging using the 1-1/4 Kreg screws, be careful not to force it or they may come through the board. I used wood glue to hold on the edging and clamps while screwing in the boards. 
Make sure that your edging is just a little higher than the plywood board so that you can sand the edging down, using 120 Medium sandpaper, to make it even with the plywood. Be careful not sand off your oak veneer on the plywood. 

Kreg each of the 2x6 boards every 6in. per the instructions. 

Flip the top over after sanding, so that the underside is facing up, and you can attach the 2x6's to the underside of the table.

I managed not to get any pictures of attaching the 2x6's to the bottom of the table, so I have drawn up some images in an awful paint program. I started by screwing in one 2x6in board (brown) 3 inches away from the edging (black) onto the bottom of the table top (white) through the Kreg holes, then measured 32inches and placed the 2nd 2x6 and measured again 32inches and placed the 3rd 2x6. 
You will have a bit of overhang in case you want to sit at the end of the table. I centered the middle of the 44in. 2x6s with the center of the table top so that when it sits on the shelves the table top will be centered. 
The 2x6's will sit on the shelves like the below.
*Don't you love my awesome paint editor skills. 😜

Once everything is sanded and your 2x6's are attached on the bottom, you will flip the board over. Tape off your edges, if you want to do them a separate color from the top, if you are wanting the top to be all one color, then you can just begin the staining process. First you will want to pre-stain per their instructions and then follow the instructions for the stain. I did 3 coats of the true black stain.

Let the stain dry and then tape off the edges so that you can paint them (or repaint them in my case).


Let dry, remove tape, and then add polycrylic top coat per instructions on the can (you'll need the 220 Very Fine sandpaper for this as well). I did two coats of polycrylic seal.


Once it is dry, then you are ready to move the top to the base. Because the top is so heavy, I did not attach to the base.

 I used the space in between the shelves and the top to store my cutting boards and felt boards.




Please let me know if you have any questions I would be more than happy to answer. If you’ve made it this far, and you want to see more creative content, follow me on Instagram @SEWGloverCreations
HAPPY BUILDING!

Inspiration for my table came from these two blogs:

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